High Level Private Customization In Paris Is No Longer The Patent Of The Rich

　　 High setting fashion It is more common in the theater. The world-famous Ballet of the Paris Opera House, which has a long history, performs in the Paris Opera House all the year round. Behind the stage of this 19th century theater, there is a carefully divided production clothing studio. Each team has its own responsibilities: some are responsible for tailoring, some are responsible for knitting, some are responsible for jewelry, some are responsible for female hats, some are responsible for embroidery, and some are responsible for dyeing, Others are responsible for drawing.

stay High setting fashion In the studio, the tailor cut and sewed the stiff linen model, improved the design drawings, and finally made the cloth into a garment, decorated it with handmade silver flowers and gold trim. Chief Ballet Fashion Designer Xavier Ronze explained: "Our work includes repairing and remaking those old costumes, and there are many details that cannot be seen by the audience that need to be improved." They make their own pigments and dye their own fabrics.

They are familiar with traditional Costume Cutting techniques, such as multi-layer cutting of tulle to make a stiff ballet skirt, and making piano strings or guitar strings into lightweight women's crowns.

This studio will not only produce traditional costumes, but also create unique Clothes & Accessories 。

In 2014, Mr. Ronze was shopping latest fashion During the exhibition, I found that the mannequins sold by Alvanon Company were very special. This is a multinational clothing trading company, which provides mannequins for major clothing brands. Customers include Diesel, Levi's, Nike, etc. Their models are made by 3D scanning based on the real body shape. Ronze was inspired. What would be the effect if 3D technology was applied to dance clothes?

The clothing department of the Paris Opera House produces an average of 100 customized new pieces every few weeks Costume The complexity of this process lies in the fact that each of the 154 dancers in the troupe should be tried on several times to ensure that each suit is not only beautiful, but also does not affect the dancers' body movements. In addition, the head of the costume department must sit in the auditorium to watch the rehearsal, which is to ensure that the colors and accessories of the costumes can present an ideal effect under the stage lighting. If the effect is not satisfactory, then clothing The department needs to make improvements, such as man 's suit Draw a shadow next to the lapel, or stick some shiny artificial diamonds. Ronze "Only in this way can the audience more accurately understand what the performance wants to show," said Mr

Ronze told Benjamin Millepied, the director of the theatre, his idea. When Janice, CEO of Alvanon, a family run company from Hong Kong When Wang went to Paris to hold the annual regular meeting, Ronze and Millepied invited her to visit the theatre to see if the company could provide mannequins that meet the needs of the theatre.

Ms. Wang recalled: "I saw the equipment they were using at that time, and I silently thought that it was unscientific for them to do so." At that time, the theater clothing The department personnel use the traditional filled manikin to simulate the figure of dancers. Wang said that in general, the dancers have wide chests and full hips, which is quite different from the standard models in the fashion industry.

Ms. Wang suggested that 3D scanning and comprehensive analysis should be carried out on the figures of dancers in the theatre to build a new standard human model of dancers. This project costs a lot of money, about 2.5-28 million euros, which is not affordable for a state-owned theater. Alvanon said it was willing to provide this service for free.

In 2015, Alvanon's team flew to Paris, scanned the figures of more than 100 adult and child dancers in the troupe, and drew large, medium and small mannequins for male, female and child dancers.

Now, the mannequin produced by Alvanon has been put into use in the Paris Opera House. The latest work is an 18th century Viennese style dance drama. The costume design is operated by the old Buddha Carl Lagerfeld. It will officially meet the audience on July 15.

Mr. Ronze said when evaluating the Alvanon mannequins: "They have saved us a lot of time. The first version of the costumes are much more suitable than in the past, and we will not spend so much time and effort in the subsequent adjustment process."

Many troupes have begun to contact Alvanon and other high definition brands in Paris.

Ms. Wang said: "The market value of this product is very gratifying. However, we believe that the significance of cooperation with the troupe is not only to make money, but also to carry forward the art. Costume The skillful hands of the producers are priceless, and we hope that these skills can continue to be passed on, so that the audience can enjoy the visual feast. "